Taillebourg in France, charm and history

Sep 7

Sep 7 Taillebourg in France, charm and history

It was a hot, sunny July day in 1242. A light breeze ruffled through the flags carried by the 20,000 British Knights and soldiers, and their armour gleamed in the sunlight as the troops massed in fields next to the river Charente. Before them, a fortress many considered impregnable. Surrounded on three sides by ramparts hundreds of feet high, and on the fourth by a river, this castle had long been the lynchpin in local French defences. But the putative attackers on this day had some cause for optimism: almost 100 years earlier Richard III (“the lion heart”) had successfully sacked the castle, in retaliation for a French-supported rebellion against his father.

Thus commenced the battle of Taillebourg, won decisively in the end by the French forces, but fascinatingly this is only one chapter in the rich and varied history of this tiny town. Sitting in a very strategic position on the route from northern to southern France, and on the river Charente (for centuries a commercial artery exporting salt and later Cognac)- Taillebourg was at the centre of the Hundred Years’ War, and home of Alienor of Aquitaine, a famous french noblewoman who would become queen of both England and France, and mother of Richard III. There was a castle on the site since at least 700, controlled over the centuries by many powerful french families and local barons in the days before modern-day France. The area is steeped in Anglo-French history as various families plotted, schemed and warred with and against each other in rebellions and counter rebellions worthy of a whole series of Game of Thrones. The frontier between England and France in these parts was actually delineated for many years by the Charente river.

Nowadays life in Taillebourg is somewhat more tranquil. There are still the ramparts and some old castle ruins which present stunning views of the surrounding area and hint at the rich history. There is also the local Boulangerie Le Fournil de Lenzo - loved by locals and tourists alike as one of the best in the region, and some popular drinking and eating establishments along the river in Taillebourg itself and nearby Port D’Envaux. Annual summer spectacles, re-creating the history of the place, run every year. These are fantastic events which we really recommend to attend if you are in the area then.

Relaxing by the river before a waterski session

But in recent years Taillebourg seems to be undergoing somewhat of a resurgence of popularity among the English! Prevalence of local gîtes, châteaux and camping sites for accommodation and a relaxed, authentic vibe have seen tourist numbers steadily climb over recent years.

Les Glycines, a fabulous restaurant in Taillebourg

The river itself of course continues to be the main attraction whether that is a gentle afternoon puttering along in a small boat, a tourist trip on the Palissy, fishing, stand up paddle boarding or even water skiing and wake-boarding at the picturesque Nautic Club de Taillebourg, run by a small group of local water sports enthusiasts in this spot since 1979.